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How a creative director can completely destroy the style, savoir faire and personality of an iconic firm… or not.

music collectin saint lauren paris hedi slimane

"I'm going to do whatever comes my way. cock", ¿Porqué? Why is not a statement sent with that headline by the Saint Laurent Paris house signed by Hedi Slimane himself? Would much more honest, much more direct and so much speculation would end and I criticize so much.

The new campaign images of the Music Project by Hedi Slimane for Saint Laurent Paris, starring icons of the rock world such as Marilyn Manson, Courtney Love o Kim Gordon photographed by the designer himself, have caused such a stir in the world of moda that in itself the marketing strategy is worth a potosí. But does this benefit the French house?

hedi slimane saint laurent paris musi collection marilyn manson

If only it could be saidhas been sincere, has taken referents and has kept them intact as an incalculable value”, but no, Slimane has let them choose their outfits and later has given them a great face lift. We see completely millimeter compositions, studied and fully phosohoped. An ex-drug addict rocker diva rolls on the floor stretched out in a fur coat. ¿WTF?

hedi slimane saint laurent paris musi collection courtney love (1) hedi slimane saint laurent paris musi collection courtney love (4)

Or at least bet on the new grunge. He doesn't even bet on young talent or on making room for something fresh, uses expired stars and it does not seem to me the most appropriate way to look forward. The detail of Ariel Pink's shattered nails particularly touches my soul, I would hit everyone who has made a decision in that photo…

hedi slimane saint laurent paris musi collection Ariel Pink (1) hedi slimane saint laurent paris musi collection Ariel Pink (2)

When they give you absolute power these things can happen. Inconsistencies – or maybe not so much, because, according to the house, it is trying to resume and emulate Laurent's union with Mick and Bianca Jagger (design your wedding dresses)– that can shake the pillars of anyone.

I'm not going to talk about clothes you get from the H outlet&M, or half-junkie models, I am not going to talk about elegance and style of the past either, only of those conflicting sensations between the history of the firm and the present. A duality that can be perfectly understood in the example of Marilyn Manson, turned into a strange entity, ugly, dislocated from historical reality and completely sold to the devil. And please friends of Vogue, stop calling this mister enfant terrible porque 1: he is no longer a kid and 2: it's just a jerk.

hedi slimane saint laurent paris musi collection Kim Gordon (1) hedi slimane saint laurent paris musi collection Kim Gordon (2)

my fashion story, still, it is not so extensive and deep as to carefully assess the idiosyncrasy of the firm and the personality of Yves Saint Laurent, But if I can allow myself the luxury of giving brief brushstrokes on what was transmitted to me before (historically) and about what it transmits to me now.

the before

some bold letters, golden, iconic and appetizing. Access to wishes granted with all the simplicity that a luxury house can tolerate. Personality, distinction and even natural elegance. Rotundity and transgression from style and charisma. Some look over the shoulder.

hedi slimane saint laurent paris musi collection Kim Gordon (3)

the now

Banality with aseptic touches, coldness and detachment from history – not even from grunge –, outdated stereotypes, search for transgression and referents that collide with (alleged) brand personality, almost like in a duel of egos. Revolution, but not as progress, but as chaos.

hedi slimane saint laurent paris musi collection courtney love (3) hedi slimane saint laurent paris musi collection courtney love (2)

Is that the effect desired by Slimane?

Of course, let's not forget that fashion is also marketing!