A sector in which women are (and should be) the main attraction. Fashion and feminism go (¡and so it should be!) Hand.
Moda and feminism have gone hand in hand since the nineteenth century. At that time the movement did not even have a name and was only express rebellion of women who did not feel satisfied with a life in which everything is made to measure men. Fashion has accompanied this social transformation contributing, within its field, to liberate women in one way or another. So I want to highlight some moments and icons of fashion and feminism that contributed their grain of sand in female empowerment.
Corset to «release» Poiret y Chanel.
Probably one of the most cruel garments that have existed ever, corset, tax to accentuate the prevailing silhouette in the eighteenth century drew to cause fainting among women of the time unable to breathe normally. The garment was so engaged in the day that some ladies, figure which had been altered by the use of increasingly tight loops, They boasted that her wasp waist was not the result of prolonged torture, but a divine gift that had been blessed at birth. A clear example of how society with its subtle control can create alienation in the concept of women.¿How long would this ordeal last??
Paul Poiret was a Parisian couturier early last century that freed women from the ordeal supposed corset. Her figure is often overshadowed by Gabrielle «Coco» Chanel, who it is usually attributed this achievement although he had as regards Poiret. But certainly not only sentenced Coco Chanel corset but her contributions to women's fashion went far beyond. ¡liberated the women's movement!
Perhaps out of all their progress using more comfortable and adapted to new social needs and the commitment tissues dresses two piece, nonexistent so far, which they afforded full mobility and comfort to women who wore. Coco Chanel established an important precedent showing that fashion and feminism – but she was a feminist to know – they were not close positions. ¡fashion could fight, for the party touched him, in women's liberation! Models in vogue did not have to objectify women.
¡It's time to wear the pants!
It's been over two hundred years since the pants ceased to be an exclusively male garment and this long interval history have been important milestones of feminism portrayed in fashion. «In the late nineteenth century, women began to wear pants for industrial work. During world war II, women wore pants when her husband came to her job«. The first to wear pants were suffragettes Elizabeth Smith Miller and George Sand.It was not until the 60 when Andre Courreges proposed long trousers for women as fashion object, (there would begin the era of the pantsuit) and it began to remove bans – because if, sometimes it was forbidden to wear pants – in schools, jobs or even restaurants. Highly recommended this article that tells the story of how a woman was arrested for wearing pants y este book that chronicles the struggle of women for wearing trousers.
female inspiration to create and communicate…
Thanks to the daring of the French designer emerged other prominent names in the industry. Reborn a feminist proposal in fashion 50. Although all thinking of those years we think of the iconic Pin-up by placing a freshly made cake on the windowsill, we can not forget that en this very moment was brewing a second wave of feminism whose graphic exponent can be found in«Rosie, the riveter» de Naomi Parker Fraley.
Over in the time it would take Claire McCardell, named «American fashion mother«. While he is recuperating Dior outfits once as the shoulders and big skirts with her «New look», McCardell advocated soft fabrics and elastic bands, While they are extolling the feminine silhouette, in no case they went against the body of the carrier.
His pragmatic perspective superimposed his skills couture caused a furor among women of the decade, inspiration that reaches the present day and McCardell's clothing decisions are studied in design and clothing schools.Italian Elsa Schiaparelli is one of the designers discussed, With
Diane von Furstenberg, the unique Vivienne Westwood, Donna Karan, Miuccia Prada, Carolina Herrera. All banners «feminist fashion» created by women and thinking about them. And we continue with all this plethora of women that dominate today's catwalks with their creations as Stella McCartney, Phoebe Philo, the sisters Mulleavy, Monique Lhuillier, Vera Wang, Isabel Marant, etc. In Spain we find women Amaya Arzuaga, Ana Locking, Elena Benarroch, Agatha Ruiz de la Prada, purification Garcia, Maya Hansen, Vicky Martin Berrocal, María Escoté, Pura López, Teresa Helbig, etc… All work inspires the street and new creators.
The same occurs in relation to fashion journalism. Large female names inspire the world as Anna Wintour publications editorias, Customs Roitfeld, Anna Dello Russo, Franca Sozzani or journalists and critics Suzy Menkes, Vanessa Friedman, Cathy Horyn. In Spain we have examples like Eugenia de la Torriente, Leticia Garcia. Although they are all very different women throw the world a united message of power and recognition.
All without entering the world of modeling. A branch not only brutal business – sales by getting products to defend – but they can inspire their actions, actions or decisions to defend and redefine the industry.
Fashion and Feminism: ¿aware the market?
The social paradigm and the feminist struggle has advanced and changed a lot in the transition to the new millennium and it is not unusual to find every week some action of social claim to support feminism. Ya en 2014 Elle magazine created the first feminist cover of a fashion magazine.
Durante 2016 y 2017 We have witnessed many moments that have empowered women: elhashtag #FreeTheNipple, dilution of genres Let Her collection of Zoe Buckman Rave, the message «We should be all feminists» on Dior t-shirts… always come overshadowed by the economic and business movement that cause.
He criticized much collection «feminist» de Chanel because of their slogans a bit frivolous and although it is true that could have deepened, I think perhaps served to open his eyes to the mass audience that something is moving (and wishing) globally. Many young people who had little idea of the movement found a gateway to begin to raise their voices – I hope then make the effort to deepen, ¡but I'm glad that fashion lit the flame! But I believe it is a «trend» I think it is a very interesting mix between social and commercial interests. Brands worth looking filthy rich, but they can do so by launching frivolous messages or empowering messages, ¿why not bet on the second?
Las influencers: The last barrier
While the prevailing male chauvinism expires, borders are also diluted the influence. Losinfluencers They have opened a gap in the world of communication (and marketing) becoming essential in the business of fashion and lifestyle to appeal to new generations. Many of these influential network are accomplished advocates of feminist fashion. These young people help establish an environment in which you fight against stereotypes and the situation of women normalizes, In addition to support it in various causes.
As an example of fashion and feminism, I am reminded of the collection of t-shirts launched by Marta Zalamo with the claim “IM WITH YOU WE ARE ALL TOGETHER” against gender violence. Or the controversial video Dulceida on differences in each woman. (which it was thrashed for being more of a gimmicky content rather than really liberating).
Fashion and Feminism: Coherence and more information…
Asimismo, increasingly found information linking the feminist movement with fashion. It is a natural union, necessary and above all must seek to be comprehensive. I would not be that a brand like DIOR be erected as a feminist but not equal pay their workers / as or could not come to handsomest responsibility. Much remains to reflect and enhance, but at least the fuse is already lit.
You can read more about Fashion and Feminism and historical facts in this interesting post «We should all be feminist» in the NBP. For its part, SMODA reflected on the entry of feminism into the market with its article «¿Why is the feminist fashion coming back? 90?«. I also want to emphasize my admiration article Leticia Garcia «Feminism and fashion: a contradiction» and extensive reflection «¿feminism is in fashion?» El Asombrario.